Another Walt Disney villain conquers its place in the sun. After the success of the Sleeping Beauty live action prequels centred around the fairy tale antagonist Maleficent, Disney delves into the origins of another one of its evil characters: Cruella de Vil.
The 1961 animated classic One Hundred and One Dalmatians, had the voice of Betty Lou Gerson, and in 1996 the live action adaptation came to life through the extraordinary performance of Glenn Close. The Disney villain has been so successful that she has been featured also in several theatrical or audio productions, as well as in the TV series Once Upon a Time, where she is portrayed by Victoria Smurfit. But none of these versions told about the character’s past and what led her to become so cruel.
All we ever knew is that she had been a schoolmate of the Dalmatian mistress, Anita Darling. This is the element we find in the Disney’s Cruella, that depicts the rebellious early days of the eponymous character. The story is set in London during the Seventies, amidst the punk rock revolution. It begins with the titular character’s childhood, that blatantly evokes Oliver Twist, as the young Estella (not yet Cruella), as soon as she is left an orphan she befriends a pair of young thieves who appreciate her appetite for mischief, and together they are able to build a life for themselves on the London streets.
Through the years, Estella cultivates her passion for fashion, by creating her own designs, until the day her artistry catches the attention of Baroness von Hellman, a fashion legend who hires her to work in her team. But their relationship sets in motion a course of events and revelations that will question who is the real villain between the two; and will eventually cause Estella to embrace her wicked side and become the revenge-bent Cruella.
The 2021 Cruella is produced by Andrew Gunn, Marc Platt and Kristin Burr, with Emma Stone, Michelle Wright, Jared LeBoff and Glenn Close serving as executive producers. But the development of this film started back in 2013, when Aline Brosh McKenna was hired to write the story. She is best remembered for The Devil Wears Prada, and the relationship between the Baroness and Estella seems quite a copy and paste of the conflictual interaction between Miranda Priestly and Andrea Sachs.
The story of Cruella was elaborated also with Kelly Marcel & Steve Zissis, based upon the inspiring novel One Hundred and One Dalmatians by Dodie Smith. Although the screenplay was developed by Dana Fox and Tony McNamara (nominated for an Academy Award for Best Original Screenplay with The Favourite), it does not possess originality, as it retraces Dickensian schemes, with Lauren Weisberger’s Haute Couture ‘Guru-assistant’ dynamic.
Furthermore, the film lacks audacity and grit in portraying Cruella in her original evil dimension. In all her previous depictions she notoriously loathed dogs, specifically Dalmatians, except when they became fabric for her clothes. A repulsive and despicable trait of hers, but it was unquestionably her defining feature. Now that we are living in the era of sustainable fashion it seems like Disney wants to correct in hindsight Cruella’s unethical passion, by giving her a couple of canine-mongrel pets, and by justifying her aversion towards Dalmatians.
Nevertheless the Estella-Cruella will never even think of harming the spotted dogs. The character evolution is definitely in line with our times, but it seems to tune into the politically-correct course of action belonging to cancel culture, by denying the hallmark of Cruella de Vil’s evilness. As matter of fact, the production stressed that “All scenes involving animals were closely monitored by the American Humane Society”; that no animal fur was used in the making of the film, and that much of the footage showing the acrobatic dog scenes was made with the help of computer-generated effects.
Other than this, the acting and style of the film is utterly sublime and completely compensates for the weak script. Director Craig Gillespie has gathered an exceptional cast. Academy Award winner Emma Stone is perfect as Estella-Cruella, in portraying the duality of the candid ingénue on one side, and the ostentatiously evil genius on the other. Two-time Oscar winner Emma Thompson is perfect for the stuck-up and composed Baroness von Hellman and just as fit for the roles are Joel Fry, Paul Walter Hauser, Emily Beecham, Kirby Howell-Baptiste and Mark Strong.
But the real forte of this film is its look, that encompasses the set designs, the shots and the spectacular costumes and make-up. Cinematographer Nicolas Karakatsanis decided, with director Gillespie, to shoot the film in two different formats. For the world of Estella-Cruella they chose the 35 mm format, to give the film a more grainy and raw look in line with the Seventies’ atmosphere; whereas for the more refined and controlled world of the Baroness, they used the 65 mm, which is much more elegant and has more defined lines. This unusual choice truly gives character to the visual identity of the film, that is further enriched by the extraordinary work of the art department, costumes and make-up.
Cruella was filmed in Shepperton Studios outside London, where production designer Fiona Crombie and set decorator Alice Felton — both Academy Award nominees for The Favourite — unleashed their inventiveness. There were almost a hundred official sets, with the various changes required for each of them. Every ambiance was created with a beguiling attention to detail, from scenography to props. In fact, the film does not neglect to include also how Cruella’s surname is connected to the car that will become another distinctive feature of hers: the Panther De Ville.
When it comes to costumes the task was assigned to two Academy Award-winning costume designer Jenny Beavan, who had previously collaborated with Emma Thompson on Howards End and The Remains of the Day. The inspiration for Cruella’s costumes was definitely the place and era in which the film is set: London during the Seventies was characterised by a cultural conflict that mirrored in fashion, between the establishment and the countercultural movements.
Legendary names such as Dior, Balenciaga, Givenchy and later also Mary Quant, created the mod style, which in the film is represented by the House of Baroness and all its typical Regents Park trappings. But at the same time the Notting Hill squatters represented the punk movement, coming from the proletariat. This was a source of pride for inventive and self-taught aspiring designers like Vivienne Westwood and later Alexander McQueen, on which Estella is based. At first she adopts this alternative style, but then it becomes more chic and sophisticated .
The various looks were complemented by make-up and hairstyles designed by Academy Award nominee Nadia Stacey, who had the immense task of making more than two hundred wigs for the Marie Antoinette Ball and the Viking themed Charity Ball.
By and large, Cruella will enchant for its bombastic style in bringing to the spotlight one of cinemas most notoriously fashionable villains. The live action can be perceived as a cross-pollination between the most theatrical runways in the history of fashion and the most operatic visuals, even though the story is a clumsy salmagundi of successful blockbusters.
If there were to be a next instalment on this Disney character, it is recommendable for producers and writers to go back to the original writer of One Hundred and One Dalmatians, Dodie Smith, who after the 1956 successful novel, wrote a direct sequel called The Starlight Barking. Released in 1967, this story follows the first book’s Dalmatians as an extra-terrestrial force that causes all humans to fall asleep and turns all dogs on Earth into immortal telepaths. All canines discover a long-forgotten skill which allows them to hover inches off the ground and travel at supersonic speeds around the world.
One of the puppies from the first novel, even becomes Prime Minister of England. The novel then descends into cosmic horror as the Lord of the Dog Star, requests that the planet’s dogs escape into space with him to avoid a coming thermonuclear war. Although there is no Cruella de Vil, I’m sure she could be written in the story, especially because this sci-fi thriller would definitely bring an innovative twist to the children’s classic, and audiences would ravish Cruella’s potential wardrobe for outer space!
Final Grade: B+